Mr Inkerman Rogers’ Researches - 1939
Letter to the Editor
Sir, The pebble ridge along the coast around the bay extends from Hartland Point to Northam Burrows. The banking up of the pebbles in the rocky coves and against the base of the cliffs, and also the travel of the material along the shore are due to tidal wave action. The travel of the shingle is confined to the beach, and it is never found drifting where the water is deep. Frequently the shore is denuded of shingle by wave action accompanied by heavy ground swell from the great Atlantic, while in other places the pebbles are heaped in huge banks deep and wide. As the force of the waves which beat against the cliff or sea-wall and cause destruction is governed by the depth of the water on the beach in front of them, it is obvious that the most effective means of protection is the
maintenance of the beach and the prevention of its denudation; and this has been attained, judging by the accumulation of pebbles in front of the sea-wall opposite Westbourne Terrace.
Under Cornborough the advancing waves strike the shores obliquely at an angle of about 30 degrees, but the maximum effect in the forward movement of the pebbles is attained when the angle of waves impact is 45 degrees, which may be observed along the shore from Rocks Nose to Westward Ho!