Sixty years on, and we review the 'Big Freeze'
"The winter to end all winters" and "the worst winter for 200 years"
A wintry outbreak brought snow to the country on 12–13 December 1962, and a cold easterly set in on 22 December as an anticyclone formed over Scandinavia, drawing cold continental winds from Russia. Throughout the Christmas period, the Scandinavian high collapsed, but a new high formed near Iceland, bringing northerly winds. Significant snowfall occurred as the air mass moved south, and parts of Southern England had heavy snow late on 26–27 December. The cold air became firmly established.
On 29 and 30 December 1962 a blizzard swept across South West England and Wales with snow drifting to more than 20 feet (6.1 m) deep in places, driven by gale force easterly winds, The snow stranded villagers and brought down power lines with the near-freezing temperatures meaning that the snow cover lasted months in some areas. How was North Devon affected?
4 January 1963
Milk supplied by Bideford Dairies has been flown by the rescue helicopters of RAF Chivenor to snowbound Lynton district. Bideford Sports Ground, adjacent to the dairy company’s premises, proved a convenient landing ground.
On Saturday morning Hartland had its daily papers brought in by improvised sledge. Early buses from Bideford were unable to reach Hartland owing to icy conditions on steep hills on the last stretch of the journey. On being informed of this, local newsagent Mr Henry Mitchell went out to bring in the papers. Using a tea chest as a sledge he dragged them 1½ miles to his shop.
Arctic weather beats football and the local derby between Bideford and Barnstaple was ‘blanketed out’.
Whatever inconvenience the hard weather has caused, the snow has been put to good use by these youngsters of Torrington district where the steep slopes have seen the appearance of many an improvised sledge.
Westward Ho! Holiday Centre ‘go Scottish’ for the annual Hogmanay Ball of the North Devon Caledonian Society.
11 January 1963
All hands to the shovel! A family snow clearance combined operation at Bideford.
Cattle centre men win battle with the snow.
No matches were played in the Torrington and District Darts League last week owing to the weather. Clubs in outlying districts were unable to travel owing to the treacherous road conditions and the same applied to Torrington clubs who had away fixtures. The committee will have a difficult task in rearranging fixtures.
At Torrington Town Council’s meeting, Ald C Quick thinks there is justification for the complaints received. Cllr F J Gent compares Town Park to Siberia; Cllr R M Boyer thinks more should have been done; Cllr G Copp asks why the Town Council’s men couldn’t clear the Square; and Col J E Palmer suggests that a policy of priority action is formulated. The Surveyor, Mr P Symons says that in his view, he had done what was best.
18 January 1963
At the Seamen's Mission at Appledore some un-nautical water flowed down through the premises as a result of the hard frost. First intimation that there had been a burst came when the missioner, the Rev Donald Cox, was sharing in a game at the billiard table and drops of water began to descend on them from the ceiling. Prompt attention helped to limit the damage but is is feared the billiard table will need expert attention.
Frozen lavatories have brought about the closing of many schools in the district for longer or shorter periods. A spokesman at the North Devon Education office at Barnstaple said that the picture changed almost from half day to half day. Among schools that have been affected are Bideford Church of England and East-the-Water; Northam; Hartland; Torrington County Secondary and Blue Coat; and Clovelly. In some cases where schools could open only local children had been able to attend because of transport difficulties, the spokesman added. “Until we get a long spell of fairly high temperatures there cannot be much improvement.” But at the moment hope for relief does not appear to be in the offing. Except in the sun temperatures have rarely been above freezing point. Yesterday the freezing east wind returned.
Clovelly as the holiday maker does not see it, but looking as picturesque as ever in a rare mantle of snow.
Continuing the story of the big freeze-up – a serial story of which all have grown weary except possibly some of those children whose schools are closed. Throughout the week people in Bideford and district have continued to shiver, and not merely because of the sub-zero temperature. Many dread the situation with which they will be confronted when a real thaw arrives. In Bideford the situation is fast becoming serious and the frost is tending to aggravate a problem that had its beginnings in 1962, when rainfall was 10 inches below average. At this time of year Gammaton reservoirs, with a capacity of between 32 and 33 million gallons, should be overflowing. In fact they contain something like 5 million gallons. Demand for gas was unprecedented, said Mr W Verity, South Western Gas Board district manager.
Mr L J Dunn, the Surveyor, reports that damage to pipes in council houses has been slight.
Icefloes on the Torridge! In its slower meadow stretches, particularly near Furzebeam hill, the river was frozen from bank to bank with the stream continuing underneath the ice which was of considerable thickness in many places. Indeed, it looked as if one could walk across, but discretion prevailed. In the higher tidal stretches by Halfpenny bridge, Weare Giffard, the effects of layers of ice along the banks, built up over the days, was brilliantly eye-catching in the sun. A number of people were out at the weekend exploring such unusual sights provided in the river valley by the hard weather.
Mr Mark Finn, a member of Bideford Road Safety Committee declares that ‘As a Bideford ratepayer I am entitled to walk on a pathway…in security.’
It now seems certain that there will be the worst pile up ever known of North Devon soccer fixtures at the end of this season. Last Saturday was the third successive week that all matches in this area had to be postponed, including rugby. After inspection on Friday the Sports Ground was ruled unfit for the Robins’ home Western League encounter with Torquay United Reserves.
A party of nine men and three boys spent an exhausting three hours at Mr Andrew Goaman’s Ford Farm, Hartland, rescuing a cow that had gone through a frozen brook and was unable to extricate herself. The animal is due to calve in a month’s time. To make the rescue it was necessary to drive a tractor several hundred yards down the frozen brook to the cow which apparently had completely lost the use of its legs. She was rolled on to a gate and towed up a field and it was necessary to take the end out of a deep litter house and manhandle her into that to give protection.
This photograph, taken at Stevenstone, Torrington, shows skaters on the pool and young skiers on the slopes above. The skiers, the daughters of Capt Knight, who is stationed near Paris with SHAPE, are pupils of Stella Maris Convent School, Bideford, and have just returned from a holiday in Switzerland.
It was pick and shovel work with a vengeance removing frozen ridges of hard packed snow from the roads at Torrington. This photograph was taken in South Street but the temperature had no southern balm! Clearance had to be done manually without the help of more salt which failed to arrive.
At Westward Ho! the receding tides left long lines of ice and frozen foam, two or three feet high, along the beach, and the west sand became frozen as it was uncovered.
The recent intense cold was indirectly responsible for an outbreak of fire that caused several hundred pounds worth of damage at the English timber yard of the Devon Trading Company at Torridge Hill, Bideford. A workman was attempting a thawing operation with cotton waste when the flames spread rapidly to involve a largely-wooden building. When the alarm was given Bideford firemen had just returned to the station from another incident and within a few minutes were tackling the outbreak. Two appliances from Bideford were soon reinforced by others from Appledore and Torrington and in less than an hour the blaze was under control. A quantity of cut timber was destroyed and sawing machinery was severely damaged. In the early stages the task of the firemen was grim for so cold was it that the water began to freeze as it left the hoses. Mr R Swain, manager of the Bideford branch of the Devon Trading Co., said that the good work of the firemen undoubtedly prevented the blaze from involving other properties. Drums of creosote were stored in an adjoining store but these were rolled out of the way.
High Street premises of Trapnells Ltd of Bideford were rocked early on Monday when a high pressure boiler blew up shortly after it had been lit. Damage was confined but an employee, Mr J H Beer, had a lucky escape.
The refuse collectors and tip man were praised by the Surveyor, Mr H J Bishop, at the meeting of Northam Urban Council. They had continued to work throughout the difficult conditions that had been experienced "and I take off my hat to them" he said.
25 January 1963
Bad for drivers but better for railways.
Clovelly is still badly hit by the hard weather. Slerra Hill is so treacherous with ice that even farmers have been unable to negotiate it with their tractors to take the milk churns to the depot. Mr J J Headon and his son Norman have been able to help with their Land Rover.
Hartland awoke to find streets, roofs and walls covered with ice. It rained heavily between 4 and 5am and this froze as it fell. Conditions were appalling and vehicular traffic was at a standstill. Pedestrians had to proceed with extreme caution clutching walls, railings, window sills, etc. Socks worn over shoes were the mode. These conditions were apparently confined to the NW top of Devon. Bus services and supplies from outside the parish were held up. Milk has been delivered on everything from a builder's lorry to sledges improvised from sheets of corrugated iron. The 'favourite' topic of conversation is burst pipes.
Hartland School, which managed to reopen last week, had to be closed once again. The bitter weather of the weekend froze the water mains underground and these cannot be thawed by artificial means. During the time the school was open last week approximately 90 pupils attended each day. The distant ones could not attend as the buses could not reach them.
There has been a rare occurrence at Spekes Valley, Hartland, where the stream takes a spectacular plunge over the cliff to find its way in stages to the beach. With rainfall reduced, the stream has been running lower than usual at this time of the year and the bitter weather caused it to freeze, giving the impression of a giant icicle. The photograph, taken in summer, shows the first breath taking plunge of the stream as it leaves the valley.
A robin is grounded at Hartland, and a snipe dies.
Mr C R Rowe, mine host of the Black Horse Hotel in Torrington is able to get water from a stand-point.
Parts of the river Torridge down to the estuary froze in the bitter wind and these sheets of ice coming upstream on the tide, and meeting ice that had been brought downstream on the ebb, presented a remarkable sight around the arches of Bideford’s 600-year-old Long Bridge. Nothing on this scale has been seen this century. A leading fisherman said he had never seen so much ice there or down river frozen to such an extent. Large sections of ice, some several feet thick, piled up against the arches of the bridge and upstream the frozen river at one time presented an almost continuous stretch of ice. Below the bridge huge chunks of ice were scattered on the sands at low tide.
Mr J Horrell, Buckingham Arms, Taddiport, helps out queues of people by providing water.
1 February 1963
After weeks of freeze-up thaw brings flooding fear. Massive ice-floes in swollen river.
A sequel to the front page picture last week of the amazing build up of ice above Bideford bridge. Early last weekend a group of unemployed men were engaged by the Bridge Trust to break up the larger floes and so ease dispersal down river and protect the arches from damage.
On Monday, a loudspeaker van announcement warned the people of Bideford that the town’s water supply was to be off from 10pm to 6am from the following day. The Borough Surveyor, Mr H J Denne, said the decision was necessary because of the abnormally heavy demand for water through burst pipes and the supply position. Gammaton reservoir has a capacity of 32 million gallons but early this week contained only 2 million gallons.
Skipper Reg Hopkins, 15 Fordlands Crescent, Bideford, and the 180-ton collier Carita clear the way.
The intense arctic spell from Christamas to last weekend was a most trying experience and, what is more, we cannot be sure that it will not be followed by others before the winter is out. The prospect is not pleasing. But when summer comes and the years roll on, our 'ice age' will probably be recalled with rueful humour, easing the edge off the grim reality. Like wartime trials, the severe weather has encouraged neighbourliness. Getting water from a tap two or three doors away, gathering in shivering sympathy around a standpipe supply in the street, or sharing a cup of tea when heating facilities were restricted served as a reminder that we are members of a community and not islands unto ourselves.
Fears that the rapid thaw following the blizzard – the worst for many years in this area – would cause widespread flooding had not materialised. ‘The only thing to do is to watch and pray’ said Mr A Waterhouse, sub-postmaster at Weare Giffard, where flooding of the road occurs most winters. The River Torridge was then contained within its banks but was flowing fast and rising. Local people were forecasting that there would be flooding, but were hoping that houses would not be penetrated. Dock Cottages, always the first to be invaded, had now been abandoned. Further up the river at Taddiport, Mr and Mrs J Horrell, of the Buckingham Arms, received a flood warning and had taken the usual precautions to try to keep the water out. Fortunately massive icefloes, which caused the bridge to vibrate when they struck it, did not build up. At Bideford they did, thousands of tons of packed ice presenting a remarkable sight. Periodically masses freed themselves to grind through the arches and float out to sea. Great chunks littered the banks as the tide went out and on the east side above the bridge a high build-up was left. In contrast to the scene a fortnight or so ago this was not one of glistening white but earth stained, drab colour.
A change from the weekend walk along the river at Torrington - a walk ON the river. Something to remember for years.
Three school buses are ditched but none hurt.
‘Mains supply’ with a difference. Residents in the vicinity of Torrington Square assemble at a stand-pipe for water, their domestic supplies being the victims of the severe frost.
8 February 1963
It all sounds so familiar! Torrington's plight in 'Crimean winter' 1854-5.
15 February 1963
Mr E C Beadle, of Luneray, Windmill Lane, Northam, has a lucky escape when his car skidded. He is assisted by Mr Michael Hutchings.
Suggestion that Bideford Town Council should consider making a byelaw requiring frontagers to clear snow from footpaths outside their property was rejected by the Council. Opposition to the Highways Committee recommendation came from Cllr F Patt who said that people had done a grand job. The Council should consider their own responsibility. Cllr A A Beer said it was not fair that one householder should clear the pavement and the person next door should not. For the Council to clear the snow would be a colossal task, Such a byelaw would prevent anyone bringing a case against the Council. Cllr Patt said people of 80 and 90 years of age should not be required to clear snow. The Council had done a very good job declared Cllr W J Blight. The minute was deleted.
The first Western League game to be played at Bideford since the big freeze-up resulting in the Robins triumphing over Yeovil Town Reserves 1-0, a penalty being the deciding factor.
Golfers are asked not play at the Royal North Devon Golf Club.
Mr W H Walter, of Country View, Woolsery, describes Saturday business as ‘not too bad’ but at Bideford Pannier Market, cream froze in bowls.
22 February 1963
The thaw brings flooding fears as the River Torridge rises and packed ice frees itself to float out to see. A vast quantity of water had banked up in the Kenwith Valley meadows which was of concern for residents in Chanters Lane.
There was praise from the Medical Officer of Health, Dr Mervyn Thomas, at Northam Urban Council meeting for Mrs E M Hilder and her W.V.S colleagues for having operated the ‘Meals on wheels’ scheme without a break, so relieving the hardship endured by several elderly people due to the severe weather. Mrs Hilder, thanking the M.O. and her helpers, said that 21 meals are now being provided, indicating that the scheme had been much needed. The old people greatly appreciate the service.
After being planned to take place a week earlier but having to be postponed because the severe weather made travelling conditions virtually impossible, the wedding of a Clovelly bride took place at High Street Methodist Church, Bideford. The bride was Miss Stella Ann Stanbury, only daughter of Mr and Mrs K F Stanbury, of Downland Farm, and the bridegroom Mr Leonard John Tucker, elder son of Mr and Mrs L J Tucker, of Westacott Farm, Barnstaple. The bride was attended by four bridesmaids – Misses Eileen Stanbury, Norma Govier, Marion Tucker and Pamela Warren. Duties of the best man were carried out by Mr Dennis Cockram and the ushers were Messrs Trevor Stanbury, Gordon Stanbury, Norman Tucker and Donald Harmer. A reception was held at Tanton’s Hotel and Mr and Mrs L J Tucker left for their honeymoon, spent at Bournemouth and Jersey.
8 March 1963
Seven ships loaded with coal were anchored in Bideford Bay waiting their turn to unload their cargoes at East Yelland power station whose stocks had been well dug into during the recent exceptionally cold spell.
22 March 1963
Richard John Cleverdon, of Great Gorwood, Buckland Brewer, and William James Prouse, of 13 Pitt Avenue, Appledore, are fined for traffic misdemeanours.
Reminiscences from Archive volunteers
"I was at Edgehill College, living at Northam, and and a group of pupils walked to and from school on a daily basis for about 5 weeks. Uniform rules were relaxed and we were allowed to wear wellingtons (as long we changed into shoes on arrival); arriving at school we were given towels and hot soup; and we were allowed to leave school after lunch to return home in daylight."
"In Leicester, I can recall the water pipes in the road froze, therefore there was no water or heating in my Hall of residence. I walked everyday to university."
"The memories that I recall from the 1963 winter freeze whilst living on the outskirts of Reading include sleeping under several blankets and waking to find ice nearly an inch thick on the inside of the bedroom window. My father would rise early each morning to light our living room fire to try and warm the house as this was before double glazing and central heating. Once the house was warmed sufficiently my brother and I would get up, dress and get ready for school. School was some 2 - 3 miles across fields and usually on our way we would meet up with other children from the nearby estate. As kids we would have snowball fights and play on the ice and on one occasion I actually fell through the ice, so spent most of the day with wet socks and shoes. Thankfully we had coke fires situated in the middle of each classroom to heat the school. I do remember the crates of milk for us children left out in the snow which had frozen and so expanded, so had to be thawed, some days the birds had pecked the silver tops off and sipped the milk."
"I remember the river being frozen and the ice floes being piled up against the arches on the ebb tide. I think that was the year we had standpipes and we had to walk from Strawberry Cottages in Meddon Street to get water because the pipes were frozen."
"I remember in late December snow swept into both Devon and Cornwall. Serious events were unfolding across the counties but it was the school holidays so every hill and slope was in use. Freezing conditions had made the ground rock hard. Soon the word was that on the Burrows Goosey pool had frozen over, a group of us headed down from Northam. We found the pool and Burn (The Pill) was well frozen, there were people skating, others searched for any bits of stick that could be used for ice hockey and at one stage the Wise brothers had their Cortina dancing and pirouetting on the ice. This was a very different school holiday. The ice on the Burn was a good six inches thick, we had brought a wooden sledge and tied two ropes to the front bar, with one person on each bank ready to pull, the ride of a lifetime would begin. Staying on was the first test as the runners pulled the sedge as fast as they could. It would career down the track bouncing off the banks at breakneck speed from Goosey pool to the golf club bridge. Run after run we had, then went home cold and wet but ready for more. What a week it was, a real school holiday not to be forgotten."